So here I am, taking a giant leap across the Atlantic to live and work in a completely different world for an entire 8 months. And I suddenly realize, I am completely alone. I have never actually travelled alone before. My first experience overseas involved a tag team of 20-somethings as volunteers in Guyana. My second and third experiences involved my partner in crime and a few other ruffians who decided to give teaching in China a shot. So here I am, alone, awoken suddenly by the muezzin calls to prayer at 4 am, in Mombasa, Kenya. And I say to myself, “What have I gotten myself into?”.
It has now been exactly 4 days since I landed turbulently on the island of Mombasa (yes, I am living on an island, who knew?) and I was greeted by my supervisor and his wife, and promptly taken to a highly secure, walled compound, complete with guards, bolted doors, and razor wire. I am told “ You will be safe here”. Safe from what, exactly? And in those 4 days, here is what I learned about travelling alone:
Lesson #1: Friendliness (and tips) gets you (almost) everywhere.
I have been eating at a local restaurant within seconds walking distance from the office, and was finding I was getting absolutely horrendous service. My first time there, it took around 30 minutes to get the menu and another 45 to be served. This first time, the tab was taken care of. The second time I arrived, it took about 20 minutes to get a menu, and another 30 to get my food. This time, when I received the bill I panicked and struggled to remember if we learned anything about tipping in Kenya at the orientation. I paid an extra 5 shillings (1 cent) and promptly left, embarrassed. However, my third time dining at this particular establishment, I was ready with the knowledge that Kenyans, in fact, do not tip. But I noticed something peculiar. The waiter greeted me with a smile and brought me a menu the second I sat down. Attempting to be adventurous, I decided to ask the waiter what he recommended. With a great smile, he said that they had the best 'chana bateta' something or other. Knowing from my Guyana experience, chana is chick peas with Indian spices, so I went for it. I couldn't believe how fast my food came, about 5 minutes. Needless to say, I tipped an extra 10 shillings, and walked away smiling. (Oh and the chana bateta was a spicy soup with peanuts and kind of chick pea dumpling – and it was delicious!)
Lesson #2: Learn the local language, and learn it fast.
Funny story this one is. For a couple of days now, my colleagues at the office have been encouraging me and bugging me to learn Swahili. I have been practicing some basic words, such as 'jambo' (hello), 'habari' (also hello), 'asante' (thank you), and 'mzuri' (i am fine). Also, I made a goal to learn how to count to ten. This is quite challenging, since every time I go to count on my fingers I start speaking Chinese. But I practiced and practiced. And today, I thought I'd try it out on my colleagues, since they were bugging me (in a playful way), yet again! Well let me tell you something: The word for number ten in Swahili is 'kumi'. However, when I got to number ten I instead said “kimu”. There was quite a lot of laughter and I was corrected. Later on in the day when a female colleague had me alone for a moment, she informed me that the word I spoke actually meant a certain body part. Lesson learned. And I will never forget the number ten in Swahili.
Lesson #3: Relationships are key.
Greeting everyone in the office and at my 'home' has been an important part of my staying sane. It is also a great way to practice Swahili! There are a number of people in my life now that I would never have back home. The host-lady I am living with, the maid, the driver, and my office colleagues. I do my best to greet everyone, ask them how they are, and in doing that, attempt to build some kind of connection. The most challenging part is learning everyone's name. So I have a running joke with my colleagues, asking them not only “How are you” in Swahili, but then “And what is your name...for the 5th time?”
Lesson #4: Sharpen your internal reasoning.
Without having someone nearby to toss questions, ideas, and concerns around, it becomes pertinent to think clearly and on the spot. With a travel companion, you have the advantage of experiencing something together and deciding what would be a good or bad idea depending on the situation. I came to a few conundrums this week already:
Should I eat this?
Will this power outlet make my computer explode?
Maybe I am spoiled, but I am accustomed to having a travel companion who either pretends he knows the answer, or he's just super smart ; )
Lesson#5 Go exploring.
As I mentioned earlier, one of the first impressions I got of Mombasa was that I had to be on lock-down in a high walled, high security compound. During orientation in Canada, I was warned of the many 'don'ts' to ensure my safety: don't walk at night alone, don't wear jewelry, don't carry lots of money, don't carry a fancy phone, don't go to an ATM but go into the bank, etc etc. I was again reminded of my vicarious position when my host padlocked and dead bolted a series of doors and gates from within her own house. (Add this to the already high walled compound, guards, shards of glass, and razor wire). To add to the fear of whatever I was supposed to be afraid of out there, I was informed I would have a driver to and from work every day. And I asked myself, “Am I ever going to get to see Mombasa?” “Am I allowed to go out?”
So what did I do today? I went out. I saw Mombasa (or at least one block of it) and it was exhilarating. I felt a mix of thrill, then fear, then thrill. I was stared at. But I wasn't robbed. I wasn't harassed. I was free!
Lesson #6: Be patient.
I have learned over the years, that when you get to a new, totally foreign place where people may not speak your language, it is important to find the essentials: grocery store, bank, cell phone/internet provider, gym, and a local hang out. My second day here, after what felt like 12 hours of sleep, I had all of these things on my mind. How can I get Internet? Where can I get a SIM card? How do I get money? Where will I go running to stay sane and in shape? Where are all the expats? How do I get food? Who can answer all of my questions?
But instead of freaking out, which, as my family and close friends will attest I enjoy doing, I decided to “take it day by day” : a motto my Mom has insisted upon me, but I never followed. (Kudos to you Mom!). And things have been coming along slowly but surely, and in the nick of time too. Just as I was whining to some of my other 'fellows' about my sense of loneliness in a totally foreign place, a young woman stepped into my office. She promptly introduced herself as a fellow Canadian who had previously worked in Mombasa within the same program I am currently in. We exchanged numbers, made a date for lunch, and exchanged laughs about being 'alone' in another world.
Another lesson in this story? Listen to your mom, she is a world of wisdom.
